Feeding the Shogun: The Feasts of Feudal Japan
Tasting History with Max Miller・18 minutes read
The late Sengoku period in Japan saw the influence of Portuguese culture through the introduction of Catholicism and culinary exchange, impacting dishes like namasu no bu and Nanban Ryōri. Ceremonial banquets for the shogun were elaborate, featuring symbolic appetizers, gift exchanges, and precise presentation of food, showcasing the hierarchy of the samurai class.
Insights
- The Portuguese arrival during Japan's Sengoku period introduced Catholicism and culinary exchange, impacting Japanese cuisine with dishes like namasu no bu and Nanban Ryōri, showcasing the cultural fusion of the time.
- Ceremonial banquets for the shogun in the 1600s followed intricate traditions like the shiki-san-kon with symbolic appetizers, elaborate honzen ryōri style showcasing samurai hierarchy, and detailed instructions on eating, emphasizing the importance of presentation and symbolism in dining experiences.
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Recent questions
How did the Portuguese influence Japanese cuisine in the 17th century?
The Portuguese introduced Catholicism and culinary exchange to Japan during the late Sengoku period around 1600. They influenced dishes like namasu no bu, a vinegar-based dish made with daikon and gobo, as well as Nanban Ryōri, which involved boiling chicken in broth seasoned with various spices. These culinary exchanges impacted the cuisine of the time, bringing new flavors and cooking techniques to Japan.
What was the significance of the ceremonial banquet for the shogun?
The ceremonial banquet for the shogun, following the shiki-san-kon tradition, involved three rounds of sake with three drinks each, symbolizing camaraderie or reconciliation. Appetizers served during the ceremony were often symbolic and inedible, requiring guests to pretend to eat them. The banquet showcased the hierarchy of the samurai class through elaborate and expensive honzen ryōri style, with specific seating arrangements and presentation of food.
What were the characteristics of banquets in the 1600s in Japan?
Banquets in the 1600s in Japan featured three trays per guest, with the central tray being the highest and having seven side dishes, the next tray having five, and the last having three. The fourth tray was referred to as the "additional tray" due to the negative connotation of the Japanese word for "four." Each tray included a soup, a big bowl of rice, and a salt cellar, with elaborate food presentation being a significant aspect of the meal.
What was the purpose of the knife ceremony called shikibōchō in Japanese banquets?
The knife ceremony called shikibōchō in Japanese banquets involved intricate food preparation, with dishes being designed for visual appeal and symbolism, down to the colors of the ingredients. This ceremony highlighted the importance of presentation in Japanese cuisine, with specific instructions given on how to eat at banquets to fully appreciate the artistry and symbolism behind each dish.
What dishes were commonly served in the more substantial meal called godan after elaborate banquets?
After elaborate banquets, a more substantial meal called godan was served, featuring dishes like cooked chicken, namasu, white rice, and pickled vegetables. These heartier dishes provided a satisfying conclusion to the elaborate and symbolic banquets, offering guests a more substantial and filling meal to enjoy after the ceremonial and decorative aspects of the earlier courses.
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Summary
00:00
Cultural Impact of Portuguese Cuisine in Japan
- The late Sengoku period around 1600 was a time of significant change in Japan, politically and culturally, influenced by the arrival of the Portuguese.
- The Portuguese introduced Catholicism and culinary exchange to Japan, impacting the cuisine of the time.
- A dish called namasu no bu, involving vinegar, was prepared using daikon and gobo, following a 17th-century cookbook's guidance.
- The vinegar for namasu no bu required 1 and 1/2 cups of rice vinegar, 1/3 cup of sugar, and salted kombu, to be boiled and cooled before soaking the vegetables.
- A Nanban Ryōri dish, influenced by the Portuguese, involved boiling chicken in broth colored with gardenia, seasoned with black pepper, clove, ginger, garlic, and green onion.
- The broth for the Nanban dish was made with dashi, kelp, and bonito flakes, with gardenia pods steeped in it for a yellow hue.
- A ceremonial banquet for the shogun, following the shiki-san-kon tradition, involved three rounds of sake, each with three drinks, symbolizing camaraderie or reconciliation.
- Appetizers served during the ceremony were symbolic and often inedible, requiring guests to pretend to eat them.
- During a gift exchange with the shogun, snacks like grilled fowl, seafood, vegetable dishes, mochi, and sake were served, followed by entertainment with Noh and Kyōgen theater performances.
- The banquet for the shogun, served in the honzen ryōri style, was elaborate and expensive, showcasing the hierarchy of the samurai class through seating arrangements and presentation of food.
12:21
Elaborate 1600s banquets: symbolism and spectacle.
- Banquets in the 1600s featured three trays per guest, with the central tray being the highest and having seven side dishes, the next tray having five, and the last having three.
- The fourth tray was referred to as the "additional tray" due to the negative connotation of the Japanese word for "four" being similar to "death."
- Each tray also included a soup, a big bowl of rice, and a salt cellar, with the presentation of the food being a significant aspect of the meal.
- A knife ceremony called shikibōchō involved intricate food preparation, with dishes being designed for visual appeal and symbolism, down to the colors of the ingredients.
- Specific instructions were given on how to eat at banquets, starting with wetting chopsticks in soup, picking up rice, sipping soup, and then progressing to sides, with some dishes meant only for decoration.
- Many dishes were inedible due to elaborate designs or symbolism, with European banquets also featuring non-edible items for spectacle.
- After elaborate banquets, a more substantial meal called godan was served, with dishes like cooked chicken, namasu, white rice, and pickled vegetables being common.
