Watchmaker Breaks Down Swiss vs Japanese Made Watches | WIRED
WIRED・25 minutes read
Ryan Jewell is a certified watchmaker in NYC specializing in Carpenter watches, including the M15 with a Japanese movement and M2S with a Swiss movement. The M2S with a Swiss movement costs $825, while the M15 with a Japanese movement retails for $595, highlighting differences in construction and functionality between the two models.
Insights
- Carpenter watches offer two distinct models: the M15 with a Japanese movement priced at $595 and the M2S with a Swiss movement priced at $825.
- The differences between Japanese and Swiss movements in watches go beyond just pricing, with variations in winding mechanisms, part complexity, and power reserve capacities, reflecting centuries-old design traditions and engineering innovations.
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Recent questions
What are the two models of Carpenter watches?
M15 and M2S
How can I prevent skin acids from damaging a watch?
Use finger cots and tools
What is the first step in disassembling a watch movement?
Remove the straps
What distinguishes Swiss movements from Japanese movements?
Swiss have bi-directional winding
What is the primary advancement in watch design over the centuries?
Advancements in materials
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Summary
00:00
"Certified Watchmaker Reveals Secrets of Disassembling Watches"
- Ryan Jewell is a certified watchmaker working in New York City, specializing in Carpenter watches.
- Carpenter watches have two models, the M15 with a Japanese movement and the M2S with a Swiss movement.
- The M2S with the Swiss movement costs $825, while the M15 with the Japanese movement retails for $595.
- To prevent skin acids from damaging the watch, use finger cots and always have a tool between you and the movement.
- Start by removing the straps using a spring bar tool to detach the metal bars.
- Loosen the case back slightly before removing it to access the movement.
- Remove the oscillating weight to allow for automatic winding in the Swiss watch.
- Take out the screws of the casing clamps to access the movement ring that secures and centers the movement.
- Remove the stem and crown to wind the watch manually and access the movement fully.
- Use brass tweezers to gently remove the hands, followed by the dial and other components to disassemble the movement.
15:20
"Comparing Japanese and Swiss Watch Movements"
- The basic design of watches has remained largely unchanged for centuries, with advancements primarily in materials used.
- Disassembling a Japanese movement involves removing the crown and stem, followed by cleaning the movement in an ultrasonic cleaner.
- The Japanese movement integrates the sliding pinion and winding pinion differently compared to Swiss movements.
- Disassembling a Japanese movement leaves only the main plate, while a Swiss movement accomplishes similar functions with fewer parts.
- Swiss movements feature bi-directional automatic winding, unlike Japanese movements which only wind in one direction.
- Swiss movements have separate upper and lower bridges for the automatic winding system, unlike Japanese movements.
- The Swiss lever escapement, invented in the 1750s, is found in approximately 95% of watches on the market today.
- Power reserve, determining how long a watch runs on a full wind, differs slightly between Japanese and Swiss movements, with the Japanese movement offering a 45-hour reserve compared to the Swiss movement's 40-hour reserve.
