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100 Years of Fashionable Womenswear: 1830s – 1930s | V&A

Victoria and Albert Museum・12 minutes read

Three dresses spanning 100 years of British and French women's fashion highlight the evolution of silhouettes and textiles, showcasing historical references with modern twists, connecting figures like Charles James and Marit Guinness Aschan. Fashion evolves over time, referencing the past with a modern touch, with radical developments like women wearing trousers occurring beyond the period covered by the showcased dresses.

Insights

  • The Victorian dress featured intricate hand-sewn details like smocking and tucks, with paisley motifs inspired by Indian design, showcasing the problematic history of printed cotton tied to enslaved labor in the U.S.
  • The evolution of fashion displayed by the three dresses highlights changes in silhouettes and textile preferences over 100 years, indicating a trend of modernizing historical references in fashion while hinting at more radical developments like women wearing trousers in the future.

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Recent questions

  • What are some key features of the Victorian dress?

    Puffed sleeves, off-the-shoulder neckline, printed cotton.

  • How did the invention of the crinoline impact fashion?

    Widened skirts without multiple petticoats, added volume.

  • What inspired the paisley motifs on the Victorian dress?

    Indian buta motifs, popular in European design.

  • What defined the silhouette of the Edwardian era dress?

    S-bend silhouette, high necklines, full bust areas.

  • Who originally wore the Edwardian era dress featured in the summary?

    Vicountess Gladstone, donated to V&A in 1930s.

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Summary

00:00

Evolution of Fashion: Victorian to Edwardian Dresses

  • The first dress showcased is a Victorian dress from around 1835 to 1840, featuring a brown color palette, printed cotton, puffed sleeves, and an off-the-shoulder neckline.
  • The dress from the Regency Era had a straight bust line that lowered by the 1830s, with fullness created through gathers and petticoats.
  • The invention of the crinoline in the mid-century widened skirts without the need for multiple petticoats, while sleeve puffs were worn for volume.
  • The dress was hand-sewn, possibly without fastenings, and intricate details like smocking and tucks were present.
  • The paisley motifs on the dress were inspired by Indian buta motifs and were popular in European design through Kashmir shawls.
  • The printed cotton fabric of the dress had a problematic history tied to enslaved labor in the U.S.
  • The dress was worn as a wedding dress in Gloucestershire, England, and was later donated to the V&A museum.
  • The second dress, from the Edwardian era around 1910, featured an s-bend silhouette with high necklines, full bust areas, and straight skirts.
  • The dress was constructed with various laces, machine-made lace, and embroidery, showcasing elaborate panel construction.
  • The dress was originally worn by Vicountess Gladstone and donated to the V&A in the 1930s, showing signs of wear and tear over time.
  • The third dress, from the 1930s by designer Charles James, featured historical references like an 1860s corset-inspired waistband and a full skirt with modern touches.
  • The dress had a faux bodice, cap sleeves, and a halter neck with artificial flowers, mainly made of silk with possible early plastic elements.
  • This eveningwear piece was worn by British Artist Marit Guinness Aschan, a supporter of Charles James, connecting the two figures.

13:27

"100 Years of British and French Fashion"

  • Three dresses showcased cover 100 years of British and French women's fashion.
  • Emphasizes the evolution of fashion over time, including changes in silhouettes and textile preferences.
  • Indicates that fashion changes often reference the past with a modern twist.
  • Suggests that further radical developments, like women wearing trousers, occurred after the period covered by the three dresses.
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